How Long Do IP44 LED Downlights Typically Last?

Struggling to find reliable downlights for damp spaces? Choosing the wrong one leads to early failures and costly replacements, hurting your project's budget and your reputation.

An IP44-rated LED downlight typically lasts between 30,000 and 50,000 hours. The actual lifespan depends on the quality of the LED chip, driver, and heat sink. For IP44 lights, it's critical they are only exposed to splashes, not direct water jets, to reach their rated life.

I remember working on a hotel project in Dubai. The contractor was focused on the design but overlooked the specific IP ratings for the bathrooms. Just a year later, I got a call. A significant number of the shower downlights were failing. The cleaning crew used high-pressure water to clean the stalls, which destroyed the IP44-rated lights. It was a costly lesson in what those numbers on the box really mean. Understanding the details protects your investment and ensures the lights last as long as they should. So, what really determines the lifespan of an LED, and what should you be looking for?

What is the typical lifespan of a LED light?

You see "50,000 hours" on a spec sheet and feel confident. But then you hear stories of LEDs failing in just two years. It makes you question if you can trust these numbers at all.

A standard LED light's lifespan¹ is between 25,000 to 50,000 hours. This isn't when the light burns out. It’s the point where its brightness has decreased to 70% of the original output, known as its L70 rating². Quality and operating conditions are everything.

When we talk about lifespan in the LED industry, we're not talking about the light suddenly going dark like an old incandescent bulb. Instead, we talk about lumen depreciation³. This is the gradual dimming of the light over thousands of hours. The "50,000-hour" rating you see is usually a measurement called "L70."

Understanding L70 and B50 Ratings

The L70 metric means the LED will produce at least 70% of its initial brightness after the specified number of hours. An LED doesn't just fail; it fades. For most general lighting, a 30% loss of light is considered the point where it needs to be replaced.

But there's another part to this rating: the "B" value. You might see a rating like L70 B50.

• L70: The point at which lumen output has degraded to 70%.
• B50: This means that in a large batch of tested LEDs, 50% of them will meet the L70 target at the rated hours.

A higher quality, more reliable product might have an L80 B10 rating⁴. This means only 10% of the lights are expected to have dimmed below 80% of their original brightness at the rated hour mark. For a purchasing manager like Shaz, specifying for a large commercial project, an L80 B10 rating is a much safer bet for long-term uniformity and performance.

The two biggest enemies of an LED's lifespan are heat and poor power quality⁵.

1. Heat: The LED chip itself generates heat. A good downlight has a well-engineered aluminum heat sink to draw that heat away. A cheap light with a small, inefficient heat sink will cook the chip, causing it to dim faster and fail prematurely.
2. The Driver: The LED driver is the power supply. It converts AC mains voltage to the low-voltage DC that the LED needs. A cheap driver can send "dirty" power to the LED, causing flicker and early failure. It's often the first component to fail. From my experience, over 80% of early LED failures are due to the driver, not the LED chip itself.

And for an IP44 light⁶, remember my insight: it’s designed to handle splashes, not jets. If cleaning crews use a hose on an IP44-rated downlight in a commercial kitchen or bathroom, water will get inside. This will short-circuit the driver and kill the light instantly, no matter how good its L70 rating is.

How do I know when my LED light needs replacing?

An LED light starts flickering or looks dimmer than the others. You wonder if it's a serious problem, a fire hazard, or just a simple fix. This uncertainty is frustrating for any facility manager.

It is time to replace an LED light when it flickers constantly, appears noticeably dimmer than its neighbors, or changes color. These signs mean that a key component, like the driver or the LED chip, is failing and the light is no longer performing as it should.

Unlike old bulbs that just stop working, LEDs give you warning signs. Recognizing them helps you plan maintenance before a space is left in the dark. It is important to look for these signals, especially in a commercial setting where consistent lighting is key.

Key Indicators of LED Failure

Here are the main symptoms that tell you an LED downlight is on its way out. I've broken them down into what you see and what it likely means.

• Significant Dimming: This is the most common end-of-life sign. If you install a row of new downlights, they should all have uniform brightness. After several years, you might notice one or two are obviously dimmer than the rest. This light has fallen below its L70 threshold and its useful life is over. For a hotel corridor or an office, this creates a poor impression, so it should be replaced to maintain uniformity.

• Flickering or Strobing: If an LED flickers, the problem is almost always related to the power supply.

  1. The Driver is Failing: The electronic components inside the driver are wearing out. This is a common failure, especially in lower-quality units.
  2. Incompatible Dimmer: If the lights are on a dimmer switch, the flicker might mean the dimmer is not compatible with the LED driver⁷.
  3. Loose Wiring: A loose connection somewhere between the switch and the light can also cause flickering.

• Color Shift: Have you ever seen a white LED light that has started to look slightly blue or yellow? This is a color shift⁸, and it’s a clear sign of a low-quality or overheated LED chip. The phosphor coating on the chip, which converts the blue light from the diode into white light, is degrading. Once this happens, the light can’t be fixed. It must be replaced.

• Buzzing or Humming: A healthy LED downlight should be silent. If you hear a buzzing sound, it's coming from the driver. The electronic components inside are vibrating, which often means they are under stress and about to fail. This is a clear signal to replace the unit.

Here is a simple troubleshooting guide⁹.

For my clients managing large properties, I always recommend "group relamping¹⁰." Instead of replacing one light at a time as it fails, plan to replace all the lights in one area (like a floor or wing) every 7-10 years. This is more efficient, ensures perfect lighting consistency, and reduces emergency maintenance calls.

How much to replace LED downlights?

You have a few downlights to replace, but you're worried about the cost. It seems like it should be simple, but the unpredictability of material and labor cost¹¹s can easily disrupt your maintenance budget.

The cost to replace an LED downlight can be as low as $15 for a basic fixture or over $100 for a high-performance commercial model. On top of that, expect to pay an electrician between $50 and $150 per hour for labor.

Understanding the different costs involved helps you budget more effectively and avoid surprises. The total expense is a combination of the product itself (the material cost¹²) and the professional who installs it (the labor cost). Both can vary widely.

Breaking Down the Replacement Costs

Let's look at the factors that determine the final price you'll pay. As a purchasing manager, getting quotes that itemize these costs is essential for comparing suppliers.

1. Material Cost (The Downlight Itself)

Not all downlights are created equal. The price of the fixture depends on its type and quality.

• Integrated LED Downlights: This is the most common type today. The light source and trim are one sealed unit. When it fails, you replace the whole thing. Prices range from $15 for a basic residential model to $100+ for a commercial-grade fixture with high CRI, advanced optics, and a superior heat sink.
• External Driver Models: Some commercial downlights have a separate driver connected by a simple plug. If only the driver fails, you might only need to replace that part, which costs $10 - $40. This can save money, but you need to find an exact match for the driver.
• Retrofit Modules: These are designed to fit inside old-style recessed cans. They are less common for new installations but can be an option. Their cost is similar to integrated fixtures.

2. Labor Cost (The Electrician)

Unless you are dealing with a simple plug-in system, you will need a licensed electrician¹³. Their rates are the biggest variable.

• Hourly Rate: Electricians typically charge $50 - $150 per hour, depending on your country and city.
• Call-Out Fee: Many have a minimum charge for a visit, which could be equal to one hour of labor.
• Complexity: Replacing a simple downlight might take 15-20 minutes. But if the ceiling is very high, requires special equipment like a scaffold, or the existing wiring is old and needs to be brought up to code, the job will take longer and cost more.

Here is a typical cost estimate for a single downlight replacement.

For a large-scale replacement, the numbers change. If Shaz needs to replace 200 downlights in a commercial building, he can get a much better price per unit on the fixtures. He can also negotiate a day rate or a per-fixture installation rate with an electrical contractor, significantly lowering the labor cost for each individual light. It's all about the economy of scale.

Do you need an electrician to replace LED downlights?

One of your downlights is out, and you want to fix it fast. Calling an electrician feels expensive and slow, but you are worried about the safety risks and local regulations.

Although some simple plug-in downlights exist, you almost always need a licensed electrician to replace a hardwired LED downlight. It ensures the installation is safe, complies with electrical codes, and keeps your product warranties and building insurance valid. Mains voltage is dangerous.

I get this question all the time, especially from facility managers who have a handy maintenance team. They think it's just a couple of wires, so why pay for an electrician? I had a client, a manager of a small hotel chain, who thought the same. His team tried to replace a few flickering downlights in a hallway. They wired one incorrectly and caused a short circuit that tripped the power for an entire wing of the hotel, right during guest check-in. The emergency electrician call ended up costing them five times more than if they had just hired a professional from the start.

When Safety and Compliance Come First

Here’s a clear breakdown of why hiring a licensed electrician is not just a recommendation, but a necessity for commercial properties.

1. Safety First Most downlights are hardwired directly into the building's mains power (e.g., 120V or 240V). This is not like changing a battery. A mistake can lead to electric shock, fire, or damage to the building's electrical system. An electrician knows how to safely isolate the circuit, verify it's de-energized, and perform the work without risk.

2. Electrical Code Compliance In virtually every country, electrical work that involves hardwiring must be performed by a licensed professional to meet national and local building codes. For a commercial property, failing an electrical inspection due to an improper DIY work can result in fines and legal orders to have the work redone by a professional. It's a risk that is never worth taking.

3. Protecting Your Warranty As a manufacturer, our warranties are very clear. Products must be installed by a qualified electrician. If a downlight fails and we find it was installed improperly, the warranty is void. We do this because incorrect installation is a leading cause of premature failure. A professional installation protects your investment.

4. It's More Than Just Connecting Wires What if you replace the downlight and it still doesn't work?

• A DIYer might assume the new light is faulty.
• An electrician will troubleshoot the entire circuit. They can diagnose if the problem is a bad switch, a faulty breaker, or damaged wiring in the ceiling. They solve the actual problem, ensuring a reliable, long-term fix.

The only exception where a non-electrician might replace a light is with a specific "plug-and-play" system, where the downlight has a small plug that connects to a dedicated socket in the ceiling. However, the initial installation of these sockets must still be done by an electrician. For any hardwired fixture, there is no debate: call a professional.

Conclusion

IP44 downlights should last 30,000-50,000 hours, but this depends on quality parts and proper use. For safety, compliance, and warranty, always use a licensed electrician for replacements.